A youthful colour belying a wine that won't feel its age, with aromas indicating a remarkable, complete and mature character. Dashing, musky and smoky, with hints of fresh almond and nuts, combined with a buttery patina. The palate is broad, flavoursome and intensely saline, full-bodied and lively, with clear, energetic acidity and no unwanted sweetness, finishing long and mouth-watering.
Critic Reviews
96 POINTS
Stephan Reinhardt - Robert Parker Wine Advocate
The 2014 Riesling Grand Cru Schoenenbourg Grossi Laüe is pure, bright and fresh on the deep, still reductive but coolish, precise and herbal yet well-concentrated nose. Full-bodied, refined and rich on the palate, this is a dense, generously fruity, highly complex and almost massive Riesling with fine salinity on the clear, precise and defined finish that is also long, intense and complex. This is a remarkably elegant and balanced Schoenenbourg Riesling that is slowly opening up. 13.5% stated alcohol. Diam cork. Tasted at the domaine in April 2024.
96 POINTS
Anne Krebiehl MW - Vinous
The 2014 Riesling Grossi Laüe is harvested from four parcels across the midslope of the marls of the Schoenenbourg Grand Cru. From a cool vintage, with a cool, rainy summer where the autumn made the vintage. This sends out only gentle notions of chamomile tincture with emerging highlights of clear honey but with an ethereal lift and a lovely smokiness that allows you to stash this way. The palate is serene, gorgeously smooth and emollient with its cooling, soothing, chamomile-scented, fresh gentleness. This is a Riesling like a caress, like a balm, while cooling, healing and soothing. The 2014 is long and understated, just about opening up but perfectly equipped to go the distance, a wine of equanimity and class. (Bone-Dry)
95 POINTS
Anne Krebiehl MW - Vinous
Hugel switched to using the conventional Grand Cru nomenclature in 2015, making the 2014 Riesling from Schoenenbourg vineyards the last time he called it Grossi Laüe. An immediate lift of chamomile appears on the nose, fused with aromatic hay flowers and fragrant, ripe, yellow apple and the intense lift of dried lemon. All points to a beautiful evolution from this cooler year. The palate has an immense smoothness, an emollient texture that is absolutely aligned with a central, essential streak of 2014 acidity. The palate is slender, precise, taut and yet has Alsace richness. Beautifully straight and linear, very elegant, as befits this vintage. Very streamlined, aromatic and poised.
94 POINTS
Stuart Pigott - JamesSuckling.com
This vintage was really trashed by the wine scene, but this ripe and refined dry riesling shows what was possible in a great vineyard site (the Grand Cru Schoenenbour) if you did everything right. Wonderfully creamy mouth-feel and complex minerality behind it. The peach and pear fruit is just beginning to really unfurl. Long, beautifully balanced finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.
Winemakers Notes
Made from 100% Riesling sourced from a selection of the finest plots in the Grand Cru Schoenenbourg, on Keuper, marl, dolomite and gypsum soils overlaid with quaternary siliceous gravel, Vosges sandstone and Muschelkalk. Grapes are taken in small tubs to gravity-fed presses without pumping or mechanical intervention, then the must is decanted before fermenting in temperature-controlled vats at 18–24°C, racked once, naturally clarified over winter, then lightly filtered before bottling and extensive cellar ageing. Vine age averages 31 years, with yields of 43 hl/ha. Alcohol is 13.7%.
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Tasting Notes
A youthful colour belying a wine that won't feel its age, with aromas indicating a remarkable, complete and mature character. Dashing, musky and smoky, with hints of fresh almond and nuts, combined with a buttery patina. The palate is broad, flavoursome and intensely saline, full-bodied and lively, with clear, energetic acidity and no unwanted sweetness, finishing long and mouth-watering.