2024 Lethbridge Riesling

Henty is Ray Nadeson’s home away from home. Ray has long had a thing for Australia’s coolest wine-growing region and began working with Drumborg fruit not long after establishing Lethbridge. Henty started as a hub for sparkling material when Seppelt planted its flag in this prime agrarian land. Among the great attractions is the region’s affinity for aromatic varieties, including Pinot Gris and Riesling, and it was the latter that proved the biggest draw for Nadeson.

“I’ve always been a fan of German Riesling, and it was so exciting to see Riesling wines from Henty with those same outrageous levels of acidity,” he told us. “But they were made in a [bone-dry] Clare Valley style, which I thought was crazy. The raw material was crying out to be made more off-dry.” Which is exactly what he has done since 2006.

The Doeven vineyard is a low-yielding, schist-rich vineyard planted in the 1980s to Pinot Noir, Riesling and Chardonnay. It’s a remarkably cool site, with an average temperature of 17-18 degrees and very cool nights. For two decades, Ray has taken a large chunk of Jack and Lois Doeven’s crop for use in his single-vineyard Dr Nadeson Riesling, Henty Pinot Noirs and premium sparkling programme.

Ray’s other Henty source is the Vaughan Vineyard, about 15 kilometres from the Doeven site. Ray sources Pinot Gris from these limestone soils and works with the cool, drawn-out seasons to craft seductive Gris in a ripe, savoury Alsatian vein. “I don’t know what it is about this place; there’s an incredible ginger spice tone to the fruit. I’ve always loved it.” The impeccable fruit quality in 2023 prompted Ray to produce his first single-vineyard Gris from this site.

Even by Henty standards, 2023 was bone-chillingly cold, resulting in a late season featuring long hang times; the kind of year Nadeson loves for the texture, potency and coiled, refreshing acidity. The result is a trio of classy, cool-climate Lethbridge.

“Ray is ever inquisitive, working across a panoply of varieties, from classic to those emerging in this country. He also works across many regions... That he stitches together all these into such a beautiful whole is much the magic of Lethbridge. Working with a wide variety of techniques and vessels, all the wines under the Lethbridge banner feel so purposeful, so necessary, and are deliciously leading lights in their respective categories.” Halliday Wine Companion Top 100 Wineries 2024
 

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