97 POINTS
Marcus Ellis - Halliday Wine Companion
55/17/17/7/4% grenache blanc/grenache gris/roussanne/clairette/bourboulenc. Some grenache blanc and roussanne was fermented on skins for around seven months (47% of the finished blend). The remaining fruit was basket pressed. Texture. For me, it’s the defining point of this wine. Oh, I love the hard-to-pin-down flavours that drift through orchard fruits and citrus, suggest a piney and briny herbal note – like a sea breeze gliding through a cypress tree – and are further complexed with a hint of cracked fennel seed and white pepper. But it’s the texture that really elevates this, the frisson of pumiceous (it’s a word …) grip and succulent fruit, the sapid, mineral/tonic quality, the elegant tensioning, fine-tuned to perfection. What a delight.
96 POINTS
Shanteh Wale - Winepilot
Some wines transcend their varietal makeup. While the technical details—winemaking choices, percentages, élevage—may matter to some, they dissolve entirely in the sheer experience of tasting. This is one of those wines. As I sit with it now, the specifics fade, and what remains is the ethereal bliss of an exceptional white. Notes of pineapple core, nashi pear, and starfruit emerge first. Yellow fruit pulp, dry sand, and pumpkin shells seem to scatter across the floor. There’s also a savoury edge—wholewheat flour, hay, and fennel seed.The palate delivers, not just in fruit, but in complexity—olive brine salinity and the savouriness of pickled winter melon elevate this from a simple sipping wine to a perfect pairing for poached chicken, pork rillettes, or three-cheese ravioli. The acidity, though a passenger to the driving fruit, carries enough energy to keep the wine bright and vibrant from start to finish. Some kernel texture ensures that it will age well over the next 3-5 years as well.
95 POINTS
Tom Kline - Winepilot
Here we have a wine made up of 55% Grenache Blanc, 17% Grenache Gris, 17% Roussanne, 7% Clairette and 4% Bourboulenc. All handpicked and sorted separately. Portions of the Grenache Blanc and Roussanne saw an average of 7 months on skins in Clayver ceramic egg, with a total of 47% of the final blend having seen skin contact. The remainder was basket pressed. This is a textural delight while still feeling finespun with a masterful balance of flavour and structure, and any hint of overtness swept into linearity by architectural structure. Baked peach, poached apple and pastry dough make way for a twang of saline preserved lemon, bosc pear, greengage, cinnamon spice and fig leaf. Some hazelnut and tonic notes emerge with air adding further dimension around the fruit. There’s breadth and delicate richness here, but also lovely freshness. The palate is mouth-filling and textural with a lovely cut of tensile white fruit in white nectarine and bosc pear before yielding to yellow apple, cinnamon and nectarine with a firm sheath of powdery preserved lemon phenolics providing good frame and carry to long length. The nutty nuance dancing in the mouth perfume. An excellent release.
95 POINTS
Ray Jordan - Winepilot
This is a blend of Grenache Blanc with small contributions from Grenache Gris, Roussanne, Clairette and Bourboulenc, all of which were hand-picked and each going through slightly different processes before the final blend. Has a bright and spicy aroma with traces of lemon rind and fresh cream before a highly textured mouthfeel with tremendous length. So well balanced and already showing a layered complexity.
The nose is aromatic, expressing notes of peaches, mandarin confit, green papayas and honeydew melon. The palate is textural and rounded with bright acidity, giving notes of Meyer lemons, dried herbs, chamomile tea, apple skin and sea salt. A very complex blend of 56% grenache blanc, 17% grenache gris, 17% roussanne, 7% clairette and 3% bourboulenc that sat in clay eggs on the skins for five months.
95 POINTS
Campbell Mattinson - The Wine Front
Texture, flavour and presence. I love this wine. It tastes of salt, nashi pears, preserved lemon, citrus rind, nectarine and a mash of fruit skins. It’s dry, saline, pebbly and charismatic. A rose petal note develops as it breathes. It has a tonic-and-gin element. Of its own design, it’s beautiful.
94 POINTS
Erin Larkin - Robert Parker Wine Advocate
The 2023 Ovitelli Blanc leads with dried flowers and crushed seashells, brine, nashi pear, fennel seed and elderflower. In the mouth, the wine is lean and detailed, with shades of cool metal, wet stone and dried lavender. As usual, the sway of bitter almond, lanolin, white pepper and saltbush feathers the edges of perception. This is a detailed wine that gives little hints as to the fatter profile of some of the varieties, but it does not at any point give in and expand. This is tightly trussed from beginning to end, with the flavor given no choice but to extend out way into the long finish. It's a superb wine, but I'd be inclined to suggest you decant it, to allow it to gain some amplitude prior to drinking. The higher pH and lower total acidity contribute to the inherent softness of the wine and drive home the extent of the phenolic impact. 13% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.
The blend is Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Claudette and Bourboulenc, all picked and sorted separately. The Grenache Blanc and Roussanne were kept on skins in Clayver ceramic egg for seven months, everything else was basket pressed and fermented exclusively in ceramic egg, then blended and matured for a further four months in ceramic prior to bottling. It spent 12 months in bottle prior to release.
93 POINTS
Angus Hughson - Vinous
The 2023 Ovitelli Blanc is a blend of Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Roussanne, Clairette and Bourboulenc. This is quite enchanting in a finer, detailed style as it builds aromas of citrus, honeysuckle and acacia. The 2023 is fresh and composed with some serious acidity which is well matched to layers of tight flavor, accented by an attractive bite of skin tannins before building into a long, seamless finish. This confident release was enhanced by the cooler growing season.
