2022 Oratoire St Martin Cairanne Reserve des Seigneurs Blanc

• Producer: Oratoire Saint Martin
• Varietal: Viognier
• Region: Rhône Valley
• Alcohol: 13.5%
• Net volume: 750ml
• Vintage: 2022

This is a cracking, textural white Rhône. You get the intensity and concentration from the low yields alongside balancing freshness. The satin-textured palate offers layers of fleshy orchard fruits, golden lees, and almond notes with a chalky, pithy freshness cutting through the flesh. Closing with a fresh and floral finish, it’s another engaging white Rhône packed full of complexity and interest. Simply decant and add roast chicken.

Biodynamic. The limestone soils of Cairanne make it an outstanding appellation for white wines, while the elevation and Oratoire’s meticulously managed old vines produce average yields of just 25 hl/ha. In this wine, the domaine’s low-input, precise winemaking plays its part. However, the intense energy and vibrant mineral freshness can only be attributed to the vineyards and the work within them. The 2022 is a blend of 30% Clairette (planted in 1935), Grenache Blanc and Gris (also from the 1930s) and co-planted Roussanne and Marsanne from a beautiful old plot surrounded by pine trees. The fruit is fermented without additions and raised in the domaine’s old concrete tanks.

 

Oratoire is simply one of the greatest Estates in the Southern Rhône, a pioneer in biodynamics; low sulphur; the retention of old vines; and a producer of stupendous wines of depth, intensity, purity and terroir expression

While this Domaine can trace its winegrowing lineage back to 1692, it was tenth generation Frédéric and François Alary who turned Oratoire Saint-Martin into one of the most exciting estates in the Southern Rhône. A pioneer in biodynamics and low sulphur additions, all the while retaining a stock of old vines, this producer’s wines almost single-handedly elevated Cairanne to Cru status in 2016—putting it on a par with Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas and Crozes-Hermitage. Nearing retirement age and with their children taking other career paths, Frédéric and François Alary began looking for a like-minded buyer in 2019. They found their new keyholder in the Abeille-Fabre family, owners of the impressive Château Mont-Redon in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Taking over the reigns, in 2019, Mont-Redon has, according to main man Pierre Fabre, got hold of the “best terroir in Cairanne”.

The vineyards of Oratoire Saint Martin are hand tended and managed organically with biodynamic preparations. The vineyards are regularly ploughed, with some plots done by horse. This is a costly, time-consuming and difficult practice but it is one that offers a range of benefits over the tractor alternative. Very low crops also play their part, with the Oratoire vineyards typically yielding less than 30hl/ha on average.

In the winery, large wooden foudres, as well as two egg-shaped fermenters (one concrete, one in wood) and a gravity-fed cellar, allows the fruit to be handled gently. There are no additions and very little sulphur is used. Of course, what truly makes these wines so good are fantastic vineyard holdings high up on the hill behind Cairanne and the continuous ownership of these sites adds to the quality factor—they have been in the Alary family's hands since the 1600s. Most Southern Rhône wines come from vineyards on the flats whilst Oratoire’s are on the slopes near Rasteau and look out to Gigondas and down at Châteauneuf-du-Pape. They have a soil profile rich in limestone and clay which lends elegance and complexity to these full-bodied, powerful reds.

In Oratoire you get arguably the finest producer in Cairanne. If you accept the often-heard claim that Cairanne is the supreme Village in the Côtes du Rhône (and we do!) then you know we are offering something special. In short, these are delicious and very naturally made wines that offer outstanding value year in, and year out.

 

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