2022 Cellier Saint Benoit Arbois Pupillin Viandris Chardonnay

Where the Ploussard vines in Viandris face north, the Chardonnay here occupies the west-facing slope at a high 368 metres in intensely limestone-rich soils. The roots of old 60-year-old vines (again, planted by Ben’s grandfather) dig deep and produce low yields, bringing depth to the site’s energy. To emphasise the different terroirs of each parcel, the winemaking for all the Chardonnays remains very similar. All the grapes are pressed as whole bunches into used 600-litre barrels for fermentation and 12 months of lees-aging. Benjamin then decants off the gross lees, and the wine rests on clean lees in stainless steel for a further six months, allowing him to bottle the wines without filtration. A lovely wisp of smoky reduction marries beautifully with the wine’s power and drive. Super wine.