Clos de Tart is one of the greatest terroirs of the Côte d’Or and since Sylvain Pitiot took over as manager in the late ‘90s, this site has produced one of Burgundy’s most consistently outstanding Grand Cru wines. The average vine age in the clos is now over 60 years, with some parcels over 100 years old. The vines run north-south along the slope, a rare orientation only found in approximately 1% of Burgundy’s vineyards. This is designed to prevent erosion but also changes the impact of sunlight and the shading on the vines. Organic growing methods are the rule here (now certified) and renowned soil scientist Claude Bourguignon has consulted for some time. Although the clos has a regular, east-southeast aspect, the clay/limestone geology is very complex with six different expressions of limestone found across the vineyard–the most prominent being calcaires à entroques, white marl and hard Prémeaux limestone. Picking started on the 20th of September this year—almost a full month later than in 2020—and lasted five days. Yields were a very low 20 hl/ha, reflecting the poor flowering and the season. Extraction was very gentle: one early foot treading of the cap and then only pumpovers. The wine spent three weeks on skins and aged for 22 months before bottling. Noli has reduced the level of new oak down to 65% (from 100% not so long ago). Only the best batches made it to the final blend, which ended up being roughly 55% whole bunches. As always, the wine was hand-bottled by gravity without fining or filtration. Despite the challenging year, this is a truly great Clos de Tart and, from memory, is showing better as a young wine than any examples I have tried. It’s as classy an expression of this wine that I have come across, and I can’t wait to see what it does with further aging.
Critic Reviews
96 POINTS
Neal Martin - Vinous
“It has a fragrant and open bouquet with brambly red fruit, crushed stone and wilted rose flowers. The palate is lighter than the 2021 with filigree tannins, perhaps airy in style, lightly spiced, quite linear with a saline finish that lingers in the mouth. This grows in the glass over 20-30 minutes, expanding and gaining in terms of nuance. Maybe not in the same class as the previous vintage though frankly, it's not far off.”
96 POINTS
Neal Martin - Vinous
The 2021 Clos de Tart Grand Cru includes 53% whole clusters and 64% new oak. It has a fragrant and open bouquet with brambly red fruit, crushed stone and wilted rose flowers. The palate is lighter than the 2021 with filigree tannins, perhaps airy in style, lightly spiced, quite linear with a saline finish that lingers in the mouth. This grows in the glass over 20-30 minutes, expanding and gaining in terms of nuance. Maybe not in the same class as the previous vintage though frankly, it's not far off. Points: 95-97
96 POINTS
Charles Curtis MW - Decanter
“‘Classic Pinot Noir’ according to winemaker Alessandro Noli. He has spared no expense to produce a superb wine, declassifying to premier cru swaths of the Clos that didn't meet his expectations. The result has a lovely ripe, expressive mulberry and pomegranate fruit with accents of earth and sweet oak spice and a silky precision to the texture that is firm if less powerful than in recent years. The overall result is a beautiful expression of the Morey terroir.”
95 POINTS
William Kelley - Robert Parker Wine Advocate
Unwinding in the glass to reveal notions of sweet red berries and plums mingled with orange zest, rose petals and sweet spices, the 2021 Clos de Tart Grand Cru is full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with a textural attack that segues into a layered, enveloping mid-palate, framed by sweet, powdery tannins and ripe acids. This combines all the inherent charm of the vintage with rare depth and seriousness. Points: 94-96
94 POINTS
Neal Martin - Vinous
The 2021 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was bottled in July 2023. It has much more intensity than the La Forge, though there remains a bit of new oak to be subsumed at the moment. The medium-bodied palate has fine depth and freshness, considering the growing season. It offers soft red berry fruit and touches of sous-bois - not complex but feels long and tender on the finish. Perhaps not quite matching my expectations from barrel, yet it is still a commendable showing, given the season.
94 POINTS
Neal Martin - Vinous
The 2021 Clos de Tart Grand Cru is more sultry than Hubert Lignier's Clos de la Roche yet well defined, delivering the complexity you expect from this vineyard with cranberry, raspberry and just a hint of rose petals. Fine delineation despite the present reduction. The palate is medium-bodied with sapid red berry fruit. Fresh and quite saline in the mouth, this feels linear and maybe a bit conservative. But in not putting a foot wrong, it has much to offer and it lingers nicely on the finish. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.
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Tasting Notes
Clos de Tart is one of the greatest terroirs of the Côte d’Or and since Sylvain Pitiot took over as manager in the late ‘90s, this site has produced one of Burgundy’s most consistently outstanding Grand Cru wines. The average vine age in the clos is now over 60 years, with some parcels over 100 years old. The vines run north-south along the slope, a rare orientation only found in approximately 1% of Burgundy’s vineyards. This is designed to prevent erosion but also changes the impact of sunlight and the shading on the vines. Organic growing methods are the rule here (now certified) and renowned soil scientist Claude Bourguignon has consulted for some time. Although the clos has a regular, east-southeast aspect, the clay/limestone geology is very complex with six different expressions of limestone found across the vineyard–the most prominent being calcaires à entroques, white marl and hard Prémeaux limestone. Picking started on the 20th of September this year—almost a full month later than in 2020—and lasted five days. Yields were a very low 20 hl/ha, reflecting the poor flowering and the season. Extraction was very gentle: one early foot treading of the cap and then only pumpovers. The wine spent three weeks on skins and aged for 22 months before bottling. Noli has reduced the level of new oak down to 65% (from 100% not so long ago). Only the best batches made it to the final blend, which ended up being roughly 55% whole bunches. As always, the wine was hand-bottled by gravity without fining or filtration. Despite the challenging year, this is a truly great Clos de Tart and, from memory, is showing better as a young wine than any examples I have tried. It’s as classy an expression of this wine that I have come across, and I can’t wait to see what it does with further aging.
