Situated mid-slope on the hill of Corton with a perfect south-easterly exposition, Les Grèves is one of Corton’s finest red terroirs. The soils are reddish clay peppered with a type of Jurassic limestone known here as Ladoix (after the nearby village), as well as some flint. Domaine des Croix purchased a 0.55-hectare parcel of 1960 vines in 2009, and have farmed them organically since then. This was vinified with 25% whole bunches and aged in 20% new oak. It’s an absolutely stunning, layered and mouth-coating Corton—at once muscular and lithe—powered by an underbelly of...